Maryland - Part I (Annapolis)

Hello readers! I apologize that I have not posted in several weeks. It isn't due to a lack of interest or exploration, just a matter of my personal and professional life getting a lot busier and more hectic than I anticipated. I had my Internet and cable disconnected in my apartment because it was simply TOO expensive ($120/ month!), and have not yet activated an alternative month-by-month service. If you have any suggestions (such as Cricket or Verizon- two companies I've already been told to look into by friends) please feel free to let me know! You don't realize how much you USE the Internet until you don't have it at your disposal whenever you wish. I also came down with a seriously terrible flu/bronchitis/upper respiratory infection/pink eye illness combo that had me out of commission for over a week, slowing progress in posting even more (don't worry- I'm all better now!) I have about 4 entries in process, so please bear with me!

I had a very good friend (Alicia) come and visit me from Connecticut for my long Veteran's Day weekend. Being a great friend and good sport, she joined me on my adventure to Annapolis- the capital of Maryland. We spent a day there, visiting three locations: The Annapolis Maritime Museum, the US Naval Academy, and the Alex Haley Memorial. We were instantly impressed with how clean, quaint, and colonial the city looked- in fact she noted that it reminded her a lot of Connecticut!

THE ANNAPOLIS MARITIME MUSEUM

I learned about this place by doing Google searches for "Maryland tourism". Almost every site listed mentioned this quaint museum, so I just HAD to check it out. I was expecting a semi-large space with information about Maryland aquatics, boat history, and how the water has affected Maryland (or at least Annapolis) culture. I kind of got that. It was a very small (but free!) building that my friend and I later learned used to be an oyster shucking plant. Essentially it was a room, with a split up boat in the middle, a murky tank and giant oyster model in the back corner, and a few interactive exhibits along the walls. Inside the tank were fish native to the Chesapeake Bay (and horseshoe crabs- which look completely scary and creepy but are harmless- according to both the staff and my Connecticut friend who is also familiar with them...I personally don't want to find out either way).


Inside of the Maritime Museum

I was slightly disappointed, but a good sport I still walked around and checked it out- and I'm glad I did. The split up boat is a decades old oyster boat separated to show you the construction and allow small kids to climb in and through (I didn't feel small enough to fool around with that, so kudos to the men and women who do that every day!) The interactive displays in the back talk about the history of oyster harvesting as an industry- with videos showing different methods use to collect them from the water, how to open them, etc. There was a giant oyster model with LED lights that showed different parts of the oyster. In the back, there was an actual stand that would have been used by workers as they stood, shucking oysters trying to fill buckets as quickly as possible, as well as equipment and antique products that would have been made in the plant. The displays claimed this was one of the few industries blacks and whites could work side by side in....but all the photos they showed and used in displays- I only saw blacks (no biggie though). Outside, along the back, there is a dock, with signs talking about both the history and fragile ecosystem of the Chesapeake Bay. Kind of surreal reading about all the different ships and events that happened while in the background expensive sailboats and yachts are bobbing in the water.

Overall, very cute museum even though it is small. Just a tip, there is street parking available- but not much. and for some reason, we left there ready to sit down to a meal. This is a great place to bring small kids who have never been to a museum before- a perfect balance of learning that some things you can touch and other things you cannot.



THE UNITED STATES NAVAL ACADEMY



First off- wowza. Before I get into details, this has to be the most immaculate campus of anything I have ever seen. I was in full history geek mode the entire time...and I loved it! Alicia and I wandered in and out of several buildings (one of which had a reproduction of a 1909 Wright Military Flyer...long story as to how I knew that on-sight) and I took pictures on our scenic walk. The primary purpose of my visit, however, was to get to the museum located on their campus that covers the naval history from around the world, but with special emphasis on the American Navy and the development of the USNA as we know it today. Admission was free- but I think it's because we arrived later in the day because I distinctly remember reading about admission fees somewhere online...but I digress.

Wright Military 1909 Flyer replica on display on the campus

In two levels, you get a very thorough background of naval history. On the upper floor, there are stations that explain how each part of ships worked (via exhibit displays- nothing hands on though) You also learn about model shipbuilding, as there are dozens and dozens of ship models around the room, most of which are centuries old and were made my prisoners of various countries and conflicts. Some of the more interesting ones were made of animal bones with crude tools. The first floor specifically discusses that American Navy and it's development from our colonial days up through now where USNA alum have flown into space. We both really enjoyed out visit there, and highlights for me were displays of all the class rings from every year of the Academy's existence, and a giant flag that said "Don't Give Up the Ship!" I was also surprised at how many names I already knew and recognized (such as Oliver Hazard Perry- who was the namesake of my rival high school...even though I still am not a fan of that place, the fact that I had an instant connection with a person featured in the museum was cool to me).

Rings from every class of the USNA

Don't Give Up The Ship!

Overall, I enjoyed my visit. It was a very well organized and executed museum- even if it is a little hidden on campus (Preeble Hall is where you wanna go- past the gigantor building that has the crypt of John Paul Jones in it). Be prepared to show ID when you enter the campus. There is very limited street parking, and they tow if you are there longer than 2 hours (a lesson we thankfully didn't have to learn the hard way!) The day we went, some special dance or something was going on, and it instantly had me wishing I was going to a military ball with someone! I'd love to return to the campus someday for a more thorough tour, but even if I never do, the Navy thoroughly impressed me!




Alex Haley reading to children (statues of course)

THE ALEX HALEY MEMORIAL

Long before I was totally aware that a TV miniseries had broken so many grounds about the story of Kunte Kinte and his descendants making a life in an ever changing America, I read the book. Mind you, I was old enough to even have been born when Roots first came on television, but I was old enough to know that the book was one of America's great novels- and that if I was going to consider myself well-read (which I did and to an extent still do) the 700+ page book was going to have to be tackled. The summer of 1996, it took me four weeks, but I finished that book and I'd never felt prouder of myself and of my heritage as an African-American. Mind you, I skimmed a few pages when Chicken George just kept doing things I considered foolish, but I READ that book. I've been a Haley fan ever since. Learning by chance that a memorial was dedicated to him, I knew I wanted to see it!

Situated on the water, approximately in the same location Kunte Kinte would have arrived from Africa, the memorial is broken into three sections. First is a sign with the explanation of the memorial off to the side and under some trees. Then there is a quartet of statues, Haley reading to children. Finally, along the water, are proverbs and sayings from African and African American culture (and Roots) that speak to importance of family, unity, faith, etc. Alicia said that she liked that it wasn't really big and "memorial" like, but just blended in with everything else, so that everyone can walk up and take claim to such inspiring information. i have to say I agree. Even though it was our last stop (not only was it now nightfall, but we had a date with a dance floor in mere hours back in DC!) it was the stop that made me feel the warmest. I could see my 13 year old self shutting the back cover, smiling and thinking about all of these things that happened so long before I even got here, and could feel almost a sense of closure getting so close to place where that history began.

For more pictures (90+) of my time in Annapolis or any of my adventures, please feel free to visit my Facebook page. Follow me on Twitter, and comment below with your feedback and ideas and opinions!

Thank you for reading!



Virginia - Part I

First off, let me say I am not that big on the state of Virginia to begin with (sorry!). It just never struck me as a place I would want to spend a lot of time, and most every time I've needed to go into or through the state, I have dealt with frustrating experiences, but I decided to take on the state with fresh eyes and see what I could see. After all, 50 states means 50 states!

Second, I thought it would be important to note that many of the places I WANTED to see were not easily  accessible- or for that matter very friendly as far as trying to help me GET there by any means necessary (I'm looking at you Luray Caverns and Monticello!) As a non-driver (for now), I accept that buses, trains, planes, cabs, and my two feet are going to be my only options until such time I have a driver's license and vehicle. I'm not opposed to taking a bus to someplace and hoofing it or cabbing it to my final destination- even though it will be expensive and time consuming. But to not even be able to tell me the closest Greyhound or Amtrak stations without various customer service reps speaking to/emailing me like I was a complete idiot was very frustrating.

Third, I have a TON of friends from Virginia (mostly from the Tidewater region: Portsmouth, Richmond, Norfolk, Hampton, etc.), so I want to thank them for all of their advice on visiting places- and where to avoid. I think that I got a pretty decent selection, and for Part I, I will focus on my adventures at Arlington National Cemetery and the National Firearms Museum.

View within the cemetery with Washington Monument in the background

ARLINGTON NATIONAL CEMETERY

I actually went to the Cemetery in August- the same day I completed the first half of Washington, DC, but since this was technically Virginia, I decided to wait to discuss my time there. Most of these pictures were taken on my crappy Blackberry Tour with a few taken on my iPod when the Blackberry decided to die (you know RIM...I'm trying really hard to remain faithful to the Blackberry brand, but this piece of junk is working my last technological nerve...however, I digress!).

I spent about two hours there, which I thought would be plenty of time, but ended up being hardly sufficient. I was quite surprised at how much learning and beauty there was to take in. My first stop (after the Visitor's Center) was the building dedicated to women in the armed forces. An event was being held in there the day I went, so I didn't get to see the entire building, but the displays of various women's uniforms throughout the services and eras was very cool. From there, I hoofed it past the graves/memorial sites of Presidents Taft and Kennedy. I overheard the Tourmobile buses discuss notable graves but honestly I didn't focus too much on the announcements. There are THOUSANDS of graves there (300,000+), and the care taken to keep the grass trimmed, memorial trees pruned, and statues and tombstones clean is tremendous and to be commended. I took pictures of a few memorials and statues that I thought were especially striking, such as the Nurses Memorial, the Confederate Memorial, and the McClellan Gate (the original entrance to the Cemetery).

The McClellan Gate (photo from the Arlington National Cemetery website- much nicer than what I was able to capture!)


I also watched the Changing of the Guard ceremony that in the summer takes place every 30 minutes at the Tomb of the Unknowns (other times of the year, the change happens every hour). The Tomb of the Unknowns (or Tomb of the Unknown Solider- an unidentified American soldier from WWI) has been guarded by the US Army 24/7 since July 2, 1937. The Changing of the Guards is a ritual that relieves whichever soldier is on current watch from his protective marching back and forth in front of the Tomb. It involves two soldiers coming out, one of whom gives the commands as the other two do a bunch of fancy gun-work to eventually have the solider that was on duty march off with the commanding solider (I will go on the record and say I have not a clue about the formal ranks of these individuals or the formal names for the movements they completed- but I have total respect for them!). I wasn't able to actually RECORD the ceremony (again, I only had a dying Blackberry at the time, not my nifty new digital camera) but anyone familiar with military or marching band movements will be able to appreciate the precision and synchronization needed to perform this without any errors. I would suggest watching it for anyone interested in US history, or military history in general.

I wasn't THIS tired at the end of the day, but it was indeed a lot of walking

I truly only had two downsides to my visit to Arlington National Cemetery. One was that getting up to some of the memorials to get a closer look or take pictures was a little awkward having to literally walk over graves to get to them (most especially with the Confederate and Nurses Memorials). This made me feel like I was being disrespectful, even though other people strolled through the sometimes too-thick grass with no hesitation. Perhaps I've just watched too many zombie movies- but I was really paranoid walking over grave sites and was just WAITING for a skeletal hand to grab my ankles lol.

Other than that, I would say take advantage of the Tourmobile for two reasons: the sun and company. Again, I was there in the middle of August, and even my veteran walking legs were tired and worn out climbing the hills and wandering through the unbelievably large Cemetery. I was hot, thirsty, and worn out by the time I hobbled back to the Visitor Center to rest before heading back home. Second, because the place is so huge, I often found myself completely alone. It can be either very peaceful- or very creepy- to be the only breathing human around and as far as you can see there is nothing but trees and  tombstones. I always felt better when I could see someone stooping to read a name or aiming their cameras in the distance to photograph a statue. Again, perhaps I've watched too many horror movies! (*UPDATE* As of 10/31/2011, Tourmobile will no longer exist. Sorry!)

THE NATIONAL FIREARMS MUSEUM

I actually learned about this place by chance. I was at work, and a visitor came and asked me about a gun museum he had heard about. I had no clue what he was talking about, but a quick Google search had me learning about the National Rifle Association and their collection in the National Firearms Museum. Even though the visitor didn't want to follow the seemingly lengthy Metro directions to get there, I was officially intrigued and decided I would go along and find this museum myself.

I went out on a rainy Wednesday and rode the Metrorail for over an hour to reach the end of the orange line, caught a Fairfax County Cue bus and rode for about 30 minutes, and then walked just over a half mile and found myself standing at the NRA headquarters with signs indicating that the museum was also on the property. For a brief second, I was nervous. Everything I had ever heard about the NRA wasn't exactly welcoming- that it was an organization full of white, mostly male, uber-conservative hunting maniacs led by Charlton Heston that collected guns and animal heads like trophies. I am probably a complete 180-degrees away from that image. However, my courage kicked in and I walked through the glass doors bold as brass, determined to see this museum regardless of who would greet me on the interior of it!

Den display in the Peterson Gallery

I have to admit that after my visit to the Andy Warhol Museum, this has been my most rewarding site find thus far! The first thing I noticed was a room full of rifles and hand guns in state-of-the-art glass cases, a wall of certificates and awards, and what looked like a very ornate smoker's den to the far right (complete with carved ivory tusks framing a faux fireplace) and a glass enclosed display of Gatlings aimed at the visitor (with bullet casing art in the background) to the far left. I had stepped into the first gallery of the Museum- the Robert E. Peterson Gallery. Filled with guns once owned by people such as JFK and Annie Oakley, and other odd and end curiosity pieces, this room set the tone for the quality one could expect from the rest of the facility.

Organized in  pretty linear format (historically), the museum goes from the earliest guns (including the oldest "gun" (arm cannon) on display in America that dates to 1350, and a gun that came over on the Mayflower), up through the Revolutionary War (with special emphasis on Virginia's militia) and the development of the Second Amendment- the right to bear arms, of course. From there, you begin to learn about advancements of gun machinery and manufacturing and how these developments helped (and hurt) up through and beyond the Civil War. Displays about WWI and WWII (including a cool "bomb scene" where Allied Forces are picking through the abandoned weapons of defeated Nazi troops). They have a replica of Teddy Roosevelt's study that you can walk in see displays about his storied history with rifles. There are displays about the guns in children's toys from the 40s and 50s, guns used in games (as in amusement park target games and paintball), and of course sport and hunting displays. One really neat fact I learned is that the Beretta company is the oldest family owned business in the world, having been in business since the 1400s.

Display of the uniforms and weapons of the Virginia Militia

I didn't check out the gift shop, I didn't have spare cash and it didn't look that impressive to begin with. I did, however, read more information about the NRA (which was displayed everywhere) including a brochure aimed directly at women that highlighted the benefits of membership for both genders. I appreciated that although guns and weapons can be a political hot-button topic, nothing (other than the historic presentation of the Second Amendment) came across as blatantly trying to sway the visitor one way or the other. I also liked that throughout the museum were computer stations where you can learn very detailed information about each and every artifact in the collection by selecting the gallery and case it is displayed in. While some of the exhibits (such as the current temporary display about guns in movies) were made awkward by encasing them in sometimes cabinet looking fixtures, overall this museum was outstanding. I would encourage everyone to check it out!

Golden Rugers on display- look at that detail work!



As always, I encourage you to check out and "like" my Facebook page. Feel free to email me at fiftystates5years @ yahoo.com with questions, comments, or suggestions. Follow me on Twitter (@50states5years), and by all means leave your thoughts in the comments section below!

I'm having a really great time planning these outings, and it's exciting that so many people have been so supportive! I've planned out my Maryland excursions (hint, I'll have my sea-legs by the end of all these adventures!) and will finish up Virginia before Thanksgiving.

BONUS: Puerto Rico - Old San Juan and the Bacardi Factory

Ok, I know the challenge is to visit all fifty states and DC by the close of August 2016. But a recent cruise I took with my best friend found me spending a day and a half in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico and I figured this would be a neat bonus entry. Understand that I literally had one day and a few hours to explore the city, so I didn't have the time I normally would take to plan a visit, but I think you'll enjoy the places I did get to check out.


Castillo San Cristobal side view

Castillo San Felipe del Morro entrance (image from Globaltrek since my personal photograph seems to have been deleted! *sad face*)

LOS CASTILLLOS (THE CASTLES)

Old San Juan is America's oldest city, and home to two beautiful former Spanish military forts: Fort San Felipe del Morro (construction starting in 1539) and Fort San Cristobal (completed in 1783). Both have seen countless battles, but now stand as physical evidence of Europe's desire to sail west, conquer new lands, and control the sea. I spent a total of about 4 hours between the two of them, and even then I found myself rushing through some places (I needed to get back to my hotel and to the airport and still do some shopping in the meantime!) Admission to one of the forts (or castles- since that's what they look like and are sometimes called) is $3, but if you want to visit both, ride the free trolley that goes from door to door (and through Old San Juan in the process of doing so), and you'll pay only $5 and just need to keep your receipt- which will also let you back into each site for 7 days after the date of purchase.



Lighthouse at El Morro

As a history nerd/Indiana Jones wanna-be, I have to admit that these two places were a dream to me. First, they are MUCH bigger than they seem from the outside- I think I only saw about 60% of each site. Second, it seems like this would be common sense, but wear not just comfortable shoes, but tennis shoes/sneakers when visiting. There are many steep and winding passages and stairwells in each location- worn smooth by centuries of footsteps. A cute pair of sandals or flats could send you tumbling into a minor injury. Finally, try and go with a friend-- I found myself completely alone many times while wandering the castles (especially in El Morro!) and it can be a bit creepy walking into dimly lit tunnels and corridors alone.



Centuries old drawing believed to have been drawn by a Spanish prisoner

With that said, you could really feel a difference in character between the two forts. Notable highlights of San Cristobal were displays of Spanish military uniforms ranging from the late 1400s until the early 1900s, and the in-tact dungeons where there are preserved examples of early graffiti believed to have been drawn by a Spanish prisoner hundreds of years ago. At El Morro, there were much more off-limit areas due to renovation or construction- and understandably so seeing as it's about 200 years older than San Cristobal. There were also bright green iguanas- that move much faster than you'd think because I couldn't snap a photo of one to save my life! There is also a light house, an auxiliary "mini-fort" and a bright yellow courtyard in El Morro.

I truly enjoyed both locations- and the park rangers were extremely friendly!

Onioned Pork Mofongo 

CAFE PUERTO RICO

The day after my friend and I returned from our cruise, we started wandering around Old San Juan in search of authentic Puerto Rican food- which was much harder than I imagined it would have been. We came upon Cafe Puerto Rico by chance on Calle O'Donnell (O'Donnell Street) which is really close to San Cristobal. A small yet sophisticated spot with wine bottles all around, our waiter was very polite in explaining was each food meant and how "authentic" each dish was. I ate alcapurria fritters (seasoned yucca with meat), mofongos rellenos con masitas de cerdo (yucca and plantain mash stuffed with onions and pork), and had flan and creme brulee (yes I know creme brulee isn't Puerto Rican, but I love it so I get it whenever possible!). My friend had conch meat with a lemony butter sauce, and red snapper (which she politely asked if they could remove the head before bringing it out)- both of which she said were delicious as well. Moderately priced (I spent about $40 with tax and tip but could easily have cut that to about $25 with different food choices), i would highly recommend this to anyone looking for tasty local cuisine.


Bacardi Factory Gift Store

THE BACARDI FACTORY

Ah, the total irony of visiting the Bacardi grounds but not being an alcohol drinker! Even if you have never taken a sip of rum in your life, this was a fun quirky way to spend part of our first day in Puerto Rico. Make sure you request an English tour, as they alternate between English and Spanish tours throughout the day. Once you get your tour ticket, you are given two additional drink tickets that entitle you to two free beverages (with or without Bacardi in them!) at a bar located in an outdoor pavilion. You ride a tram into a building where three four separate guides will tell you the history of Bacardi, show you a video about how the company grew, discuss the distillation process, and teach you about the history and preparation of three famous Bacardi drinks: the Cuba Libre, the original Daiquiri, and the Mojito.

The entire tour took less than an hour- and was overall a fun experience. I even had a sip of rum punch to celebrate being there. The gift shop had great (but pricey!) gift sets that included Bacardi products and bar paraphernalia. Some of the stranger items were mojito flavored lip gloss and Bacardi branded lingerie, but I'm sure someone is buying it otherwise they wouldn't sell it. What bothered me was one family from New York, who had their daughter (who couldn't have been more than eight) on a tour learning about alcohol, and the father asking the tour guide for Bacardi recipe information because he was "trying to start a rum company in Brooklyn". On so many levels, this family was just inappropriate for this outing- but that doesn't diminish the overall fun my friend and I had while there.

Largest Distillery in the World

Old San Juan was wonderful. I would love to go back when I have more time. I tried to see some of the local museums, only to find they are all closed on Mondays which just happened to be the day of the week I was walking around. I also want to try one of these pastries with cheese and either papaya or guava in them- everywhere I went that sold them they were sold out- including Cafe Puerto Rico. They MUST be delicious if no one can keep them in stock!

Also, if you speak any Spanish at all, I would suggest you brush up. Although almost everyone speaks English, Spanish is the language spoken primarily. That's fine- except there are some people who will try and rip you off if they think you don't understand what they are saying to each other (like the cab drivers who tried to double our fare to Bacardi after debating with his fellow cabbies what he should charge us. I, however, studied Spanish for eight years, and although I cannot jump into SPEAKING it without first planning out my words, I can understand a good 75% of casual Spanish conversation with no issues! Needless to say we were charged the proper amount after I busted him!) Also, hope that the buses are running- a $12 taxi would have only been a 50-cent bus ride had both bus companies not been on strike the weekend I was there.

I hope you enjoyed your US bonus in Puerto Rico! You can see more pictures (which as of October 9th I am still in the process of adding captions to...) on my Facebook page. Feel free to email me (fiftystates5years@yahoo.com) and be sure to follow me on Twitter (@50states5years) for my next adventures!

**UPDATE 5/6/2013**
Apparently many of my Puerto Rico pictures have gone MIA in the cyber universe. While this is very sad, I am going to hope that I can still find them either on my digital camera or in my personal Facebook albums